This non-copyrighted article may be reproduced in any philatelic publication as long as the author's name, original source publication and the CAC's on-line web address is listed.

(Note- the author has a B.Sc. in biology from Simon Fraser University and recipes listed are proven effective and safe!)

It isn't only the moneyed collector of classic stamps and rare covers that needs to be concerned about the proper handling and storage of his collection. No matter what kind of philatelic material appeals to you, there are a couple of things that you can do to ensure that your stamps, postcards and souvenir sheets will last in good condition for many years.

I found a couple of books (check your local library) that provide good general overviews of how to look after paper artifacts. The first is "An Ounce of Preservation - A Guide to the Care of Papers and Photographs" by Craig A. Tuttle, Rainbow Books, Inc. ISBN 1-56825-021-5. This paperback is a nice introduction to care and preservation of your paper collectibles, not too technical but a useful overview of topics such as paper, inks, recognizing deterioration, how to store paper, and simple repair techniques.

The second is a much more technical book oriented toward the conservator of books, but it is worth a read particularly for those storing and displaying classic stamps. The information I give below on deacidification of paper comes from this volume. It is "The Practical Guide to Book Repair and Conservation" by Arthur W. Johnson. Published 1988 by Thames and Hudson, London, ISBN 0-500-01454-X. This is a good read for the chapters on Materials, Adhesives, and Chemicals alone.

Information on the chemistry of stamp "oxidation" and it's reversal come from an excellent article in the first quarter 1998 issue of "BNA Topics", the journal of the British North American Philatelic Society. "Rejuvenation of Stamp Colours with Hydrogen Peroxide" written by L. Kruczynski is a very readable report on Mr. Kruczynski's investigations into some of the mechanisms of stamp discolouration and how to reverse them.

WHEN YOU BUY -

Mould and Mildew

Preservation should start from the moment you inspect potential purchases. Look closely - do you see any signs of staining, mould or water damage? Does the album or cover have a musty or sour smell? Is the paper damp, and is it fragile and easily torn? These are signs that the material may be contaminated with mould or mildew, and while it may be a really good buy, think twice about purchasing - you may be taking home more problems than the stuff is worth.

The main problem with albums and covers that carry fungal growths of this kind is that even with a good airing, a dry storage area, and careful handling, mould and mildew can spread to uncontaminated material in your collection and under the right circumstances can cause considerable damage. Fungal growth weakens paper, making it fragile and harder to handle, and can cause staining and colour changes in stamps and paper. Under conditions of dampness and sluggish air circulation - basement or attic storage, for instance - fungi can spread incredibly quickly and cause the loss of a collection in a matter of weeks. So avoid purchases that show the signs of mould and mildew contamination. If you must buy, make sure that your purchase is given a thorough airing in a dry place, and store it well away from the bulk of your collection. Always wash your hands after handling these kinds of pieces to prevent spread of the fungal spores to uncontaminated material.

Paper Condition

Especially if you are buying older material, carefully inspect the condition of the paper for pinholes, thin areas, and tears. Take a look at the colour of the stamp, too; is it faded or darkened? These are signs of paper deterioration that could have occurred for a number of reasons - usually improper storage. Exposure to sunlight, cigarette smoke, emissions from automobiles or coal plants, and even handling of the stamps with fingertips instead of stamp tongs can cause changes in the paper that weaken the bonds that hold the paper fibres together. Pin holes and tears can then occur with even gentle handling.

Exposure to even small amounts of acid from atmospheric pollutants or handling can cause "oxidation" of the stamp ink. Acidic compounds will also cause paper deterioration, so be aware that changes in ink colour can mean changes in paper quality, too. Orange inks of the Victorian period seem to be particularly susceptible to this kind of colour change - examples of the 3c small Queens of Canada, for example, can be almost black.

Special Cases

It also pays to know something about the printing and gumming of the stamps you are purchasing. For instance, "Ostropa" souvenir sheets issued in 1935 in Germany (Scott B68) are often found mint without gum. A gummed sheet in this case is not a very good buy as the gum was formulated with sulphuric acid which over the years has caused the paper of gummed sheets to deteriorate. Collectors who knew this soaked the gum off of their copies to preserve the paper, making the mint no gum sheets the preferred collectible. Know your stamps!

OK, MY STAMPS ARE HOME, NOW WHAT?

There are three simple rules to always remember when working with your collection:

1. Never used your hands to handle your stamps if you can use tongs.

2. Always use storage materials designed for use with philatelic material.

3. Don't smoke, eat, or drink around your stamps, or store them in areas where people are smoking, drinking, or eating.

Why tongs? Your hands may be clean, but even freshly washed hands carry traces of oils and acids given off naturally by your skin. Repeated handling of stamps with your fingers will leave residues on the stamps, and over time these will build up and cause paper deterioration and staining. The gum on mint stamps is also easily disturbed by finger tip pressure. Proper use of tongs prevents paper acidification and can save that valuable mint gum!

(This also applies to handling covers. While most modern material is never going to be worth enough to really worry about, old and/or valuable covers should always be handled with cotton gloves to avoid contamination with oils and acids.)

And why not store your stamps in baggies and old vinyl binders? While this may be the cheap way to go, watch out for inappropriate materials that may come into contact with your stamps and covers. The vinyl on binders, for instance, can give off chemicals used in the polymerization process - chemicals that even in small amounts can dissolve some kinds of inks, trash paper, and cause ink and gum transfers to the vinyl surface. A similar problem can arise with photocopied pages that may be in contact with your mounted stamps. Be careful with any kind of plastic or chemically treated material, including paper, that is not sold by a reputable dealer for philatelic purposes; the added expense of purchasing good quality storage bags and pages is very small compared to the loss of your collection by improper storage.

As for the third rule, no, I am not trying to nag you into not enjoying a smoke while you sort those colour varieties. Keep in mind, though, that cigarette smoke will discolour and damage paper eventually, and leave a smell that is impossible to get rid of. (Get a non-smoking friend to check your catalogues to see what I mean.) Try to limit exposing your collection to cigarette smoke and to any other kind of atmospheric pollutant such as car exhaust, coal plant emissions, and industrial effluent. Not easy, I know, but even keeping windows closed (or open) can help. Regular airing of your albums will also help to preserve them.

Avoid eating or drinking around your stamps, too. Grease spots and pop stains are not only unsightly, they also attract insects that can destroy an album in a surprisingly short time. Spilled coffee can also turn those expensive mint unhinged stamps into landfill in only a few seconds of inattention. Better to keep the food and drink in the kitchen.

STORING YOUR COLLECTION

The enemy of stored collections is water in the atmosphere - either too much or too little. Depending on the kind of climate you live in, you may need to either increase or decrease humidity in the room where you store your collection. Generally homes in temperate climates that use central heating provide good conditions for storing stamps. If you are comfortable, your stamps probably are too. It may be worth investing in air conditioning, a humidifier, or a de-humidifier if your budget warrants to maintain a suitable environment in your home. Be especially careful if you are storing your stamps in a basement or shed, or in an attic. If there is any hint of dampness, or if the temperature is high, move your collection to another space. Make sure your family is aware of this, too; I would guess more collections have been destroyed by inappropriate storage than by any other cause.

Take the time to go through your albums and boxes once every few months even if you are not currently using them. This allows the stamps to air, and gives you the chance to inspect them for any problems that may be developing.

FIRST AID

The following "recipes" are supplied for use in arresting or reversing some common problems that may arise with stamps or covers in your collection. NOTE WELL: If you are not willing to lose the stamp or cover, DON'T EXPERIMENT WITH IT! IF WHAT YOU HAVE IS PRECIOUS OR VALUABLE, PLEASE LOOK INTO PROFESSIONAL CONSERVATION. I would tend to try and preserve only those covers and philatelic items that will die an imminent death anyway. The German "Ostropa" sheet cited above is a case in point; the gum is so acidic on these that if they haven't rotted away already, they are darn close.

These recipes are all water based and non-toxic, but please observe some basic precautions. If you have the faintest doubt that anything on the cover or stamp may run in aqueous solutions (water), leave them alone! Ink can be tricky, as can cancellations. Watch also for wax seals and other attachments, as these too can come loose with handling combined with just a little moisture. When mixing and handling solutions, don't use kitchen utensils, as they may have traces of food or grease on them - invest in a few new, clean, spoons, containers and sprayers. Use distilled water; tap water may contain minerals or salts that will react with your cover or stamp. Use fresh solutions, too, as old solutions may not work (especially hydrogen peroxide). Spray solutions outdoors, or at least in a well ventilated area, and don't breath the spray in. And last, but very important - make sure your cover or stamp is dry before storing.

Checking paper for Acidity

Determining the acidity of paper can be roughly tested by using bromcresol green, an indicator dye. Touched to the paper, the dye remains green if the paper is neutral, yellow if acidic, and blue if alkaline. This dye is in bottles or felt tipped pens through scientific or archival supply houses. Be careful, as this will stain.

Deacidification of Paper

The chemicals used in these methods are relatively harmless (they are closely related to baking soda, and the active ingredients in proprietary antacids!) but as in anything be careful with the solutions, test them on something you don't want first, and make sure you follow the recipe. I imagine that a pharmacist or archival supply house might be able to give you a supplier for these chemicals. If you can't find these chemicals, I see no reason why plain old baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) would not be a good substitute.

Recipe 1 - Make up a 0.12 percent solution of calcium bicarbonate in distilled water. Soak the sheet in the solution for half an hour, then remove, blot off excess solution, and dry between pressing boards. This process neutralizes the acid content and leaves and alkaline residue as a buffer against further contamination.

Recipe 2 - Make up a 10 g per litre solution of magnesium bicarbonate and use an atomizer bottle (spray bottle) to spray a fine mist of solution onto the paper. Do this in open air or a well-ventilated area. This method is preferred for fragile items that may not take much handling.

Reversing "Oxidation" on Stamps

A gentle bath in a two to three percent hydrogen peroxide solution will restore the colour in stamps that have lead based inks that have darkened due to exposure to trace amounts of acid. If the colour does not change after a half an hour or so, "oxidation" is not the culprit. This treatment works for restoring colour to the 3c small Queens of Canada. By a different chemical mechanism it will also restore the colour of the "muddy waters" variety of the Canadian 1898 Map Stamp. Research the stamp pigment before using hydrogen peroxide, as vegetable based dyes used in later years may be irreversibly bleached by this treatment.

SOME FINAL THOUGHTS

They may be "just stamps", but even the most basic collection is worth handling properly. I hope these tips and recipes help you keep your collection in good condition. Remember, years from now a novice collector will appreciate a well preserved copy of even a common stamp. Good handling and storage techniques now will ensure a supply of quality stamps for the future.